




More to come in another post! I'm limited to five photographs per post, which is why I've had to split this mega post of doom up into three parts.
In Which Caroline Has Adventures While Studying Abroad In Athens
Of course, we went off with a map of Athens, my guidebook, which said when it was open, and a vague desire to see the grave of the great Mr. Schleimann. The first thing that we realized was that the cemetery is beautiful. The next thing that we realized was that it was huge. Many, many impressive monuments. No map of where everything was. It was going to be a challenge to find the tomb before we had to get back to Greek class.
The great problem was that many of the grave monuments are beautiful and impressive. It's not like you can look around, find the big monument, and go, "oh. That must be the grave of someone famous." The cemetery is very different from the ones that I am used to in Massachusetts. It is a green place, but not in a rolling-grassy-hills sort of way. There are a lot of cypress and olive trees. The monuments are mostly made of white marble.
It's actually very hard to tell how old some of the graves are. It isn't like in Boston, where you can tell by the condition of the headstone and the decorations on it the age it must be. The problem is further compounded by the fact that many of the monuments are not individual tombs, but family plots.
There also are three churches in the cemetery- two are Greek Orthodox, one is Catholic. They are beautiful, as most churches here seem to be.
And finally we found it! Ironically, the tomb of Heinrich Schleimann is one of the buildings that you can see as you enter- it's the little building shaped like a Doric temple in the first picture. It actually has very cool friezes- they depict Schleimann excavating archaeological sites as well as the usual images of gods and heroes fighting. If ever you find yourself in Athens, I would suggest a trip to the cemetery- it was very quiet, free from most of the tourists you see everywhere else, and since it is free, it is definitely good value.
And yes, we did get back in time for Greek class.
1. Lots of animals running around. We have five cats that live around my apartment. They don't seem to belong to anyone, but they live in the garden and everyone who lives there feeds them and pets them on the way out the door. In my case, it's actually been really cool- a lot of the people in my building congregate outside in the early evening to feed the cats, and I've met a bunch of my neighbors that way. In the rest of the city, you see a lot of half-tame dogs and cats. This buddy I met while I was walking in Pangrati, and I'm pretty sure he was very used to people, since he definitely wanted a belly rub. It is pretty strange to see them, and a bit scary- a dog darted into a busy street, and I thought he was a goner. (He wasn't. The cars all swerved.) Thankfully, Athens does not have a rabies problem, and they do seem mostly pretty well fed and cared for.
2. The traffic. People say that Boston drivers are scary and that Boston pedestrians are really pushy. You do not know what scary or pushy is until you have seen Athenians. Seriously. They drive really fast, they pay no attention to traffic lights, they turn in places that are probably illegal, they park on sidewalks. My walk to school should probably be a twenty minute walk or so, but it has been taking me half an hour, since I don't have a death wish and actually wait for walk lights. Especially scary- the millions of people on motorbikes. We are forbidden to ride, rent, drive, or think particularly hard about the motorbikes, on pain of expulsion from CYA. This is probably a good thing.3. The mixture of really old and really new. From what I've seen so far, buildings in Athens are one of four ages. They're really old- you know, from Antiquity- churches from the Byzantine period, museums and government buildings from the late 19th or early 20th century, or modern. There is very little to indicate that Athens was populated for centuries between the fall of the Byzantine Empire and the late 1800s. It's very different from Massachusetts, where nothing is very old but there are buildings from the last four hundred years, or other European cities, where there are a lot of buildings from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. As the president of the program pointed out, in Greece, there was no Renaissance. That was during the period of Ottoman occupation.
4. Social Unrest and a Visible Armed Police Force: There are a ton of demonstrations here. When we went a few streets to far one time and ended up near the Parliament building, we almost ended up as part of one. They protest many things all the time, from pension problems and low pay to the war in Iraq. Most protests start over by Parliament and end up in front of the American Embassy, regardless of what the protest is actually about. Going along with this is the armed police force. There are a lot more police officers here than in the US- walking to school today I think I counted about 20, if your discount all the people in ceremonial uniform- and unlike in the US, they are clearly armed. Some of them have smallish guns in holsters, but there are just as many who are standing around, holding larger gun items. It's a bit unnerving, though I know I am doing nothing wrong.
5. The fact that this is a very religious country. You see a lot of beautiful Orthodox Churches here- at some point, there will probably be a post consisting entirely of pictures of Orthodox churches. I pass by at least three on the way back to my apartment- one of my friends, who lives a five minute walk away, walks past another two. Greek people cross themselves when they walk by churches, which I find interesting. There also are more nuns and monks around than you would see in the US. (This picture, by the way, is of Lykavittos, the hill behind my apartment. Contrary to popular belief, Lykavittos, not Athens, is the highest point in the city, and apparently affords a beautiful view. If it isn't too hot this weekend, some friends and I are going to climb it.)
I'm so glad that I'm here, and I'm pretty sure that this trip is definitely going to go under the category of "life-changing experiences." I hope that everyone is doing well.
This is what happens when you type in gmail.com on the computers in the lab.
Yeah. Clearly, we are no longer in the United States.
It's back! When I checked the fiction shelf at approximately 4:30 this afternoon, there were copies of Scoop, Vile Bodies, Put Out More Flags, Unconditional Surrender, and three copies of Brideshead Revisited. I guess the patrons, probably acting according to the hive mind, decided to go Waugh-crazy again. Note the three copies of Brideshead Revisited. Three. This is what leads me to believe that it was multiple patrons, not just one.
And, since this subject doesn't appear to be as obvious as I had always thought it was...
A Library Page's Guide to What Does Not Constitute Proper ID